2026 Pricing Guide
Straight numbers from a local deck builder: what composite and wood decks run per square foot, what pushes the price up or down, and what a typical Highland, Lehi, or Draper deck costs. Then get the real number with a free itemized quote.
In Utah County in 2026, a professionally built deck typically runs $35 to $55 per square foot for pressure-treated wood and $55 to $85 per square foot for composite, installed, with a basic railing. A typical 300 square foot composite deck lands in the $17,000 to $26,000 range; the same deck in wood runs roughly $11,000 to $17,000. Steel railings, stairs, a second-story height, a roof or pergola, and lighting all add to that.
These are typical ranges from the decks we build and quote across Utah County, not a price list. Every lot is different. The only accurate number is an itemized quote after we walk the site, and that consultation is free.
| Deck type | What's included | Typical installed range |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated wood deck | Treated framing and decking, basic wood railing, ground-level or low height | $35 – $55 / sq ft |
| Cedar or redwood deck | Treated framing, cedar decking and railing | $45 – $65 / sq ft |
| Composite deck (Trex, TimberTech, etc.) | Treated framing, composite decking, hidden fasteners, aluminum or composite railing | $55 – $85 / sq ft |
| Composite deck with custom steel railing | As above, with flat-bar or cable steel railing fabricated and powder-coated in our shop | $70 – $100 / sq ft |
| Second-story / elevated deck | Taller posts, engineered footings, stairs and landing | Add 15 – 30% |
| Covered deck or patio cover | Framed roof tied into the house, with or without a ceiling | Add $8,000 – $25,000+ |
| Pergola | Freestanding or attached, wood or steel | $4,000 – $15,000 |
| Deck repair / railing replacement | Rebuild rotted framing, re-deck, or swap railing for steel | $1,500 – $12,000 |
A wood deck costs less on the day it's built, but Utah sun and snow are brutal on wood. Expect to stain or seal every one to two years, and expect boards to cup, check, and splinter over time. Over ten years, the maintenance on a wood deck often adds up to the price difference, and you still have a wood deck at the end of it.
Composite costs more up front and then mostly leaves you alone: no staining, no splinters, no rot, and a 25-year or longer warranty from the major brands. If you plan to be in the house a while, composite usually wins. If you're selling in a year or two, wood may make more sense. We build both and will tell you which fits your situation.
Most deck builders order railing from a catalog, and aluminum or cable railing from a catalog is fine. We fabricate and powder-coat custom steel railings in our own shop, which means a railing that fits your deck exactly, a look you can't get off the shelf, and no middleman markup. On a deck, the railing is what you see from inside the house every day; it's the upgrade that changes how the whole thing looks.
Fill out the form, tell us roughly what size and height you're thinking, and we'll come out for a free on-site consultation. You'll get a line-by-line quote: framing, decking, railing, stairs, lighting, permit, everything priced separately, so you can see exactly where the money goes and adjust the scope to fit your budget. No vague allowances, no surprises.
Most 300 square foot composite decks we build land somewhere in the mid-teens to mid-twenties of thousands, depending on height, railing, stairs, and the decking line. A ground-level deck with a simple railing is at the low end; a second-story deck with steel railing, stairs, and lighting is at the high end.
Over ten years, usually yes. Wood costs less up front but needs staining or sealing every one to two years in Utah sun and snow, and boards start cupping and splitting. Composite costs more on day one and then costs almost nothing. If you plan to stay in the house, composite tends to pay for itself.
Most Utah County cities require a permit for an attached deck or any deck over about 30 inches off the ground. Permit fees are typically a few hundred dollars, and we handle the application and inspections as part of the job.
Keep it ground-level, keep it rectangular, skip the cover, and choose a mid-grade composite with a simple railing. You can always add a pergola or upgrade the railing later; what you cannot cheaply change later is the framing, so we never cut corners there.
Ranges like these are a starting point. The only accurate number is an itemized quote after we see the site, because grade, access, soil, and what the deck attaches to all move the price. Our on-site consultation and itemized quote are free.
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